Wednesday, 27 July 2011

Part 4: Leaving Leh


Tomorrow we leave Leh and we will be sad to go, although we are excited to get on with our journey and to get to a place where walking uphill is not such a chore! We fly out about midday to Delhi and from there we are hoping to go to Agra for a day for a fly by Taj Mahal sighting before heading to the spiritual center of Varanassi and then finally up to Nepal! We didn't manage any trekking in Leh thanks to our various illnesses but we have a trek planned for the day after we arrive in Kathmandu with our Irish friends we met back in McLeod Ganj...
If you don't hear from us for a few days it is because we are just too busy with a hectic schedule to find internet...we are trying to squeeze in a lot these next few days as we are anxious to get up to Nepal for the second half of our journey!

Part 3: Drama in the Diner (in Leh!)


Two nights ago, we were enjoying another lovely meal at our local restaurant, around the corner from our hotel—they serve the BEST paneer butter masala and excellent roti and naan! We were just finsihing up, when a French man around 60 years old came in screaming and pushing himself into the waiter's face...we couldn't make much out because his english was very poor, but we later realized he was saying 'where is my girl?' before switching to French and beratting the poor waiter...when the waiter said 'I don't know' the french man ripped the menu out of his hands, threw it on the ground, smashed his hands on the table, yelled in french again, then grabbed the waiter and threw him across the room—the waiter smashed into the door but with the french man yelling 'find her' he quickly ran off down the street...We were very confused about what was going on...it looked as if this man was having a psychotic break—he was infuriated, he was irrational—when the waiter returned with no results, the french man picked up two glasses, smashed one on the ground and held the other up threateningly...at this point I got up and grabbed his arm and told him 'don't do this...this restaurant cannot afford to buy new glasses' at which point he held the glass at me and yelled at me in french...we eventually talked to some friendly and helpful Indians beside us that were able to translate what was happening...apparently this man's 17 year old daughter had struck up a friendship with one of the waiters at this restaurant and this night, she had gone off with him and the father could not find her—I began to understand how he was feeling—his daughter was lost in a strange land in which he could not communicate to find her (he spoke VERY limited english and the waiters and owners had broken english at best...) but still, his behaviour was unacceptable...finally, we convinced him—if you are really worried, go tell the police because no one here knows where your daughter is...Well the police take crimes against foreigners very seriously and soon there were a half dozen cops outside the restaurant, they chatted with the man before coming in—4 of them went into the kitchen while two stood outside gaurding the curtain over the doorway and all we could hear were loud words in Ladakhi and the sound of sticks on flesh—they were beating information out of people who had no information to give...The nice Indian man tried to tell the police that this French man had abused two waiters, borken a glass, a menu and a triplicate bill pad and disrupted this business causing lost revenue over the dinner rush but the police did not care—if a foreigner complains then it supercedes all else—the sad truth of 'justice' in third world countries, especially those reliant on tourism dollars...about 10 minutes after the police arrived the missing daughter returned with the waiter—he had been showing her around town, exactly what we tried to tell the french man while he was going beserk...the man and his wife tried to hug the daughter but when she realized what was going on she pushed them away, crying, and grabbing on to the waiter to protect him from the police—the parents eventually grabbed her and dragged her back to their hotel and the man was put into the back of the police car and taken away...what justice...this waiter, who is here from Darjeeling (on the other side of the country) to work during the busy tourism season, is taken to jail, probably beaten, possibly jailed and certainly fired from his job—the sole reason he came to this place—simply for taking a willing foriegner around town and being on the wrong side of her father's fury which quickly morphed, via the colour of his skin, to being on the wrong side of the law...

Part 2: Lovely Leh!


On the evening of the second day, we struggled to drag ourselves out of bed and climb up to a viewpoint of the city to see the sunset—and wow, what a city it is! As I said before, Leh is at 3500 metres above sea level—it is in a desert plateau but the valley is irrigated thanks to the surrounding mountains—5, 6 and 7,000 metre Himalayan peaks that fill the sky in every direction. There are stupas, gompas and forts clinging to the hills...The city is placed in the nicest surroundings of any city I have ever been to—it is simply amazing (another great opportunity to google image search—Leh, India). The last few days have been filled with walking around Leh and taking in its beauty—through rural, stoned walled paths, cutting between farm houses, up to the Japanese Peace Stupa and to Leh palace and Tsemo fort, perched high on the hills above the town. This town is once again filled with Buddhist Monks and Tibetan people and has a much clamer atmosphere than the towns further south...Leh easily makes my top 5 cities and has redeemed itself for the hellish journey up here...

Yesterday, we went to a village called Stok, just under an hour bus ride away...it is a lovely rural town, much smaller than Leh...we walked through the streets and enjoyed the quiet that abandoned farm roads bring...we climbed another hill to a stupa for more breathtaking views over the valley and visited the Palace to learn about the dynasty that once ruled these parts...being such a rural community, there was no return bus until 6pm and we had seen all we came to see by 3ish so we quickly grabbed a bite (our choice of omlette, chapati or instant noodles! I had the first two, Brie had the latter) and we decided to walk! We ended up walking halfway to Leh, the first hour and a half a pleasant downhill stroll through beautiful farmland with a babling brook by our side, the last half an hour, through the not-yet irrigated desert, with a howling wind nearly blowing us sideways...but we finally made it to the main road and hopped a van back to Leh.

Part 1: Laying around in Leh


So, after the adventurous journey up here we ended up in bed, sick, with various ailments and altitude sickness...I wasn't too bad—still battling the phlemy cold and a stomach ailment but Brie was much worse—she had a serious headache from the altitude combined with some type of flu-like illness...needless to say, we spent the first 2 days laying in bed, only getting up for food...we were starting to wonder why we spent so much money coming up to Leh, only to lie in bed and have no energy thanks to the altitude...coming into Leh at night we had not seen any of the city or the surroundings so we were in for a shock the next day when we finally felt well enough to get out of bed...