Delhi-Agra-Varanasi and beyond!

Hey all,

We are just in the middle of our whirlwind week...

We flew into Delhi from Leh on the 28th which was much more relaxing than that crazy drive we are still trying to forget...Delhi redeemed itself a bit during the day...we took the brand new metro line(built for the commonwealth games) to the train station...It was so weird to go from the airport (also newly renovated for the games) and the metro, which are new and sparkling, to the filthy dirty, smells like feces and rotting garbage train station! Anyways, after waiting through a huge queue we finally got our trains sorted with only a minor inconvenience of a short bus ride in between...as we were walking down the streets of Delhi wasting time waiting for our train we thought--Wow, that worked out remarkably well for India, wonder what is going to go wrong--to start, our train to Agra was over an hour late (fairly typical of the trains here) but it meant we were going to get into Agra around midnight...then we read through our book and realized that the Taj Mahal, the ONLY reason we were going to Agra, was closed on Friday and we would be arriving Thursday midnight and leaving Friday evening--meaning we would not get to go into the Taj...then the train was delayed en route another hour which meant we got into Agra after 1AM...by the time we found reasonable accommodation, which entails going to and negotiating with several different guest houses, it was after 2AM...Since we couldn't go into the Taj we decided we should wake up for sunset to see it at its finest so we were up after 3 hours sleep at 5AM... after waiting for an hour we realized that the sun was not going to set through the fog and pollution of the morning...Although we still enjoyed being up at that time, with the city quiet except for the scampering feet of monkeys on tin roofs! And the Taj was still magnificent to look at, even from afar...we went back to bed for a few hours and then met up with our tuk-tuk driver from the previous night who was actually amazingly kind, which is surprising for a tuk-tuk driver(notorious for scamming tourists!) He drove us around giving us a guided tour of Agra--first to the park across the river from the Taj for an excellent Taj view, then to the baby Taj, a monument that looks very similar to the actual Taj but on a smaller scale, then to another Tomb, that is falling into disrepair, but was once covered with brilliant blue tiles (mom, you would've liked this one!) then around Agra fort, which we were too cheap to actually enter! We ended up having a really great day and we got to see the streets and some of the lesser known places of Agra--and the Taj seemed that much more imposing and special having not been allowed in...Our driver even helped us figure out our bus to get to our train to come here, to Varanasi! The train station in Tundla was fairly small, and I have a great picture of a typical Indian scene--newish electronic train schedule board on crumbling stone wall with a massive cow inside the station!

And now here, Varanasi...we arrived around 7AM and it was already stifling hot...walking through the narrow streets with our massive bags on drained every once of water out of us...we were quickly soaked and parched and in need of accommodation and luckily, without too much hassle (by Indian standards), we found a reasonable place with a peak-a-boo view down an alley of the Ganges and a rooftop restaurant with a panoramic view of the Ganges! Unfortunately, having arrived here in the middle of the monsoon, we quickly found out that the two things that everyone does when they come to Varanasi, take a boat down the Ganges and walk along the steps of the Ghats, would be impossible for us due to a swollen river that was flooding the steps and running too fast for safe row-boat navigation (I know, when has anyone in India ever cared about safety when they can make money! But apparently the orders came straight from the government and everyone is obeying...for now...)
Our fisrt day here we relaxed and tried to cool down for most of the day...we thought it was hot up north but it was nothing...up north it was a hot August day in BC, high 20's to low 30's and dry...now that we are back down here we have been really struggling...it is high 30's and the humidity is unbelievable...we are soaked from morning till...well the next morning! We actually never stop sweating! We spend most of midday in our room, with as few clothes on as possible, laying under our fan!(we haven't caved and paid for an AC room yet, though I do fantasize about them occasionally!)
The evening of the first day we went to a Hindu ceremony at one of the Ghats about 20 mins away from us...I got a red line painted down my forehead upon arrival from someone searching for donations...we refused to pay to go out in a boat and so we may have missed a bit of the ceremony but it was wonderful to just sit ont he steps and watch all of the people come down to the water, pray, take a dip or even drink the water (yuck! The Ganges is very sacred to Hindu's and they are meant to bathe and/or drink from it--but it is ridiculously polluted--there are 116 cities on the Ganges, not one of which has a sewer treatment plant--the safe level of fecal choliform bacteria in bathing water is 500 per some fluid measurement...the ganges has 1.5 million! Not to mention all of the dead bodies that are dumped into it! Varanasi is a very sacred place to die, and if you die here or are transported here after death, you will have your body bathed in the Ganges, then cremated on the shore at one of the burning Ghats in an open fire, and then have your ashes dumped in the Ganges...unless you are a child under ten, a pregnant woman, a sadu(holy man), you died from a white cobra bite, or you are an animal, in which case you are dumped directly into the Ganges without burning...) We were able to witness both the cremation process and the ceremony of a boat, full of chanting people, go out into the Ganges and dump a body overboard... Both seemed very strange...it was weird to see bodies put on a fire although many people in Canada undergo the same process....I guess it is just the public spectacle of something that we tend to keep private and unknown...at the same time, it felt like a more personal approach, with the family being present to mourn the body all the way through...
Our second day here, today, was another fairly calm day...we went on a walking tour with an old man from our guest house and he explained a bit about the Hindu religion while showing us some of the temples around the old town...it was a good way to see Varanasi as the streets are so convoluted and confusing that we are easily lost when alone....

Varanasi...
Narrow, 3 to 6 foot streets, crumbling 3+ story buildings on either side...
Uneven bricks or paving stones or dirt...
Motorcycles, scooters, bicycles squeezing past...
Piles of garbage, cow, dog, rat, human? feces and urine...
Dead rats, dead cockroaches, dead dogs...
Cows with ribs and hips jutting out, dogs with skin falling off, blocking the way...
Dogs growling, cows mooing, horns beeping, people yelling...
Substances unknown, squishing under your feet, flip-flopping up the back of your leg...
Putrid, rotten smells, beyond belief, wafting through...
Garbage, feces, food, rotting, burning stench...
These are the streets, these are the sights, these are the sounds and these are the smells...

Enjoyable none-the-less!

We are leaving here early tomorrow morning...train to Gorakhpur then bus to the Nepali border...then, hopefully, if time allows, to Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha...then on to Kathmandu the next day to meet the Irish couple for our trek--the Tamang Heritage trail! We will once again be away from internet for a bit as we transit but hopefully we will update once before our 5 day trek...

We are missing everyone and thinking about home--about my family reunion this weekend--fantasizing about soda bread with butter and cheese! I hope it went well without us!

Bye for now,
Taylor and Brie

Part 4: Leaving Leh

Tomorrow we leave Leh and we will be sad to go, although we are excited to get on with our journey and to get to a place where walking uphill is not such a chore! We fly out about midday to Delhi and from there we are hoping to go to Agra for a day for a fly by Taj Mahal sighting before heading to the spiritual center of Varanassi and then finally up to Nepal! We didn't manage any trekking in Leh thanks to our various illnesses but we have a trek planned for the day after we arrive in Kathmandu with our Irish friends we met back in McLeod Ganj...

If you don't hear from us for a few days it is because we are just too busy with a hectic schedule to find internet...we are trying to squeeze in a lot these next few days as we are anxious to get up to Nepal for the second half of our journey!

Part 3: Drama in the Diner (in Leh!)

Two nights ago, we were enjoying another lovely meal at our local restaurant, around the corner from our hotel—they serve the BEST paneer butter masala and excellent roti and naan! We were just finsihing up, when a French man around 60 years old came in screaming and pushing himself into the waiter's face...we couldn't make much out because his english was very poor, but we later realized he was saying 'where is my girl?' before switching to French and beratting the poor waiter...when the waiter said 'I don't know' the french man ripped the menu out of his hands, threw it on the ground, smashed his hands on the table, yelled in french again, then grabbed the waiter and threw him across the room—the waiter smashed into the door but with the french man yelling 'find her' he quickly ran off down the street...We were very confused about what was going on...it looked as if this man was having a psychotic break—he was infuriated, he was irrational—when the waiter returned with no results, the french man picked up two glasses, smashed one on the ground and held the other up threateningly...at this point I got up and grabbed his arm and told him 'don't do this...this restaurant cannot afford to buy new glasses' at which point he held the glass at me and yelled at me in french...we eventually talked to some friendly and helpful Indians beside us that were able to translate what was happening...apparently this man's 17 year old daughter had struck up a friendship with one of the waiters at this restaurant and this night, she had gone off with him and the father could not find her—I began to understand how he was feeling—his daughter was lost in a strange land in which he could not communicate to find her (he spoke VERY limited english and the waiters and owners had broken english at best...) but still, his behaviour was unacceptable...finally, we convinced him—if you are really worried, go tell the police because no one here knows where your daughter is...Well the police take crimes against foreigners very seriously and soon there were a half dozen cops outside the restaurant, they chatted with the man before coming in—4 of them went into the kitchen while two stood outside gaurding the curtain over the doorway and all we could hear were loud words in Ladakhi and the sound of sticks on flesh—they were beating information out of people who had no information to give...The nice Indian man tried to tell the police that this French man had abused two waiters, borken a glass, a menu and a triplicate bill pad and disrupted this business causing lost revenue over the dinner rush but the police did not care—if a foreigner complains then it supercedes all else—the sad truth of 'justice' in third world countries, especially those reliant on tourism dollars...about 10 minutes after the police arrived the missing daughter returned with the waiter—he had been showing her around town, exactly what we tried to tell the french man while he was going beserk...the man and his wife tried to hug the daughter but when she realized what was going on she pushed them away, crying, and grabbing on to the waiter to protect him from the police—the parents eventually grabbed her and dragged her back to their hotel and the man was put into the back of the police car and taken away...what justice...this waiter, who is here from Darjeeling (on the other side of the country) to work during the busy tourism season, is taken to jail, probably beaten, possibly jailed and certainly fired from his job—the sole reason he came to this place—simply for taking a willing foriegner around town and being on the wrong side of her father's fury which quickly morphed, via the colour of his skin, to being on the wrong side of the law...

Part 2: Lovely Leh!

On the evening of the second day, we struggled to drag ourselves out of bed and climb up to a viewpoint of the city to see the sunset—and wow, what a city it is! As I said before, Leh is at 3500 metres above sea level—it is in a desert plateau but the valley is irrigated thanks to the surrounding mountains—5, 6 and 7,000 metre Himalayan peaks that fill the sky in every direction. There are stupas, gompas and forts clinging to the hills...The city is placed in the nicest surroundings of any city I have ever been to—it is simply amazing (another great opportunity to google image search—Leh, India). The last few days have been filled with walking around Leh and taking in its beauty—through rural, stoned walled paths, cutting between farm houses, up to the Japanese Peace Stupa and to Leh palace and Tsemo fort, perched high on the hills above the town. This town is once again filled with Buddhist Monks and Tibetan people and has a much clamer atmosphere than the towns further south...Leh easily makes my top 5 cities and has redeemed itself for the hellish journey up here...

Yesterday, we went to a village called Stok, just under an hour bus ride away...it is a lovely rural town, much smaller than Leh...we walked through the streets and enjoyed the quiet that abandoned farm roads bring...we climbed another hill to a stupa for more breathtaking views over the valley and visited the Palace to learn about the dynasty that once ruled these parts...being such a rural community, there was no return bus until 6pm and we had seen all we came to see by 3ish so we quickly grabbed a bite (our choice of omlette, chapati or instant noodles! I had the first two, Brie had the latter) and we decided to walk! We ended up walking halfway to Leh, the first hour and a half a pleasant downhill stroll through beautiful farmland with a babling brook by our side, the last half an hour, through the not-yet irrigated desert, with a howling wind nearly blowing us sideways...but we finally made it to the main road and hopped a van back to Leh.

Part 1: Laying around in Leh

So, after the adventurous journey up here we ended up in bed, sick, with various ailments and altitude sickness...I wasn't too bad—still battling the phlemy cold and a stomach ailment but Brie was much worse—she had a serious headache from the altitude combined with some type of flu-like illness...needless to say, we spent the first 2 days laying in bed, only getting up for food...we were starting to wonder why we spent so much money coming up to Leh, only to lie in bed and have no energy thanks to the altitude...coming into Leh at night we had not seen any of the city or the surroundings so we were in for a shock the next day when we finally felt well enough to get out of bed...

"And I was thinking to myself, this could be Heaven or this could be HELL"

So...the last few days have been crazy... This road is simultaneously the most stunningly spectacular and thouroughly terrifying and painful trip of our lives...

Disclaimer: We have a flight back to Delhi so none of this will be repeated....

Tuesday

6am- woke up after only 5 hours of sleep to catch the local bus

8:30am- attempted to catch the first local bus but by the time we found it it was packed beyond overcrowding...people spilling out the doors and on the roof

10:30am- Tried to catch the second local bus...we were more prepared this time and chased it down as soon as it pulled into the bus depot but the mobs at the doors were too much to get through and we did not get on...a couple of foriegners did get on but they had literally no room to move and would be standing, crammed into one spot, for at least 8 hours...

11am- no more local buses today so we decided to take the tourist minibus that makes the trip in one 18ish hour journey...it doesn't leave until 2AM though...

11am-2am--try to find things to entertain ourselves...

Wednesday

2am--get on the 11 seater minibus and set off for the voyage

4am--pass over the first of three major mountain passes--this one 4300 meters...the road, if you can call it a road, was just a mud slick...we spent most of the morning slidding around trying to get over the pass...the road is barely 1.5 lanes but serves as the two lane road--passing is terrifying as we squeeze by buses and dumptrucks with no barrier and a sheer cliff to the side...

4am to noon--more crazy 'roads'...the potholes are ubiquitous and our bodies our bodies are battered and bruised...our hearts race everytime we pass someone, coming within inches of the side of a cliff...

1pm--get stuck in our first landslide--luckily, there is a bulldozer on the scene already so we only wait half an hour...brie pees on the road between two cars for shelter!

4pm--cross our second pass, at 5050 m, everyone starts to feel the symptoms of altitude sickness...

8pm--cross the third pass, at 5300m, it is three times the height of Golden Ears Mountain, our driver tells us it is the second highest mountain pass in the world...at this point, everyone has a headache from the altitude along with various other ailments such as motion sickness from the insanely bumpy ride...

11pm--we arrive in Leh, after 21 hours on the road, and more the 36 hours without sleep...we are exhausted, we are sore, we are thankful to be alive! The mountian views are like nothing I have ever seen and if there was a proper road I would recommend everyone take this voyage as it is just stunningly beautiful...but with the roads the way they are, I would not recommend anyone take this voyage...

Midnight--we finally find a hotel and fall into bed, exhausted...

Thursday

3am-- wake up and every muscle from my lower back up to the base of my skull is aching from the jarring ride...

10 am-- we wake up and are still exhausted...we are not used to the altitude and everything feels like a chore...getting changed we are out of breath...

10am-9pm--we spend most of the day in bed, resting, just getting up to eat...

Friday (today)

We are taking another rest day...our bodies haven't quite adjusted yet...hopefully tomorrow we will be able to get up and explore the town...

We are so thankful that we booked a flight back to Delhi...neither of us could do that trip again...that is definitly a once in a lifetime thing... 

Hope everyone is doing well...

Maryam and Jason, we hope you had a wonderful trip! We had originally planned to trek here in Leh because it is a desert so the weather is great! It is the one place in India and Nepal that is spared the monsoon...but we are not sure if we will be able too--the altitude just drains everything out of you...

Bye for now,

Taylor and Brie

Catching up...

Mcleod Ganj was such a wonderful place! We were staying in a nice little hotel on the side of a mountain with spectacular mountain views from our balcony! We enjoyed a ton of good food, great company with the Irish couple and a British woman, all of whom we are still traveling with, and we had a great time learning about Tibetan culture--The Dalai Lama has a home in Mcleod Ganj and there is a big Buddhist temple and a ton of Tibetan exiles in town...

Manali has been good as well--again, lots of good food and good company! We tend to focus our days around eating and find things to do in between! Yesterday we took a taxi up to Salong Valley and then hiked the 15km back. We had intended to go Zorbing(again, a google image search may be necessary, but basically you get inside a giant air filled ball and then roll down a hill) but apparently everyone was on strike? We may try to figure something out today but we will see...

The plan is to set off for Leh tomorrow...We are not looking forward to the trip--even though the views are supposed to be spectacular, we have decided that a tourist bus is too expensive so we are taking the overcrowded local bus to save some money...the trip will be at least two days...more if the road is shut due to landslides..so if we don't post for a bit then do not worry! Once we get to Leh we will be there for a full week! We are looking forward to being settled in one place and hopefully we will be able to trek once we acclimatize to the altitude.

Hope everyone is well,
Bye for now
Taylor and Brie

Moving along...

It is about 3:00pm on Friday and we are just catching up on e-mails and booking a flight before heading out of McLeod Ganj on the 8pm bus tonight. We are on our way up to Manali where we will stay for 3ish nights and then make the big journey to Leh. It takes about 10 hours from here to Manali and then another 26 to Leh. We just booked a flight from Leh back to Delhi so we only have to make this trip once by bus! We have had a lovely time here in McLeod Ganj and it has been so nice to be away from the harassment of touts in some of the bigger cities. Yesterday we did a trek with the Irish couple up to Triund and got caught in the rain. The approx. 5 hour hike ended up taking us 10 hours! I have some lovely blisters that I acquired as well! We slept great last night because of all the exercise. Taylor woke up this morning with the cold that I have been fighting for the last week or so... really sore throat, stuffy nose, snot, headache... I guess it is hard to avoid with so many people and new germs in India but hopefully we can get healthy in the next while here in the mountains.

This post is all over the place... Just trying to get some info in before our internet runs out...

Hope Birch Bay weather is good and everyone is having fun. Mom, if you are able to check these in Birch Bay on someones computer can you let me know? I thought Clay and Lisa would have their computer there. Marie, I hope that visiting with the Aunties is lovely... wish we could be there to see them. I would have really loved to meet them. I guess we will just have to go to Ireland to see them! Dad, is the fishing trip this weekend? Catch lots of fish and save me some Halibut for when we get back!

That's it for now. Talk soon.

One last thing... if anyone is following the news... I am sure you have heard about the bombings in Mumbai. Just to let you know, we are FAR, FAR away from there and have no plan of going anywhere near the South of India so please don't worry.

Love us!
xoxo

Holy Water = Holy Shit

So while we were in Amritsar, we went inside the middle section of the golden temple which is in the middle of a large holy pool that Sikh's come to bathe in... (Google image search golden temple to see what it looks like!) The middle of the Golden temple is where the original Sikh Holy book is taken everyday so that a Sikh 'priest' can chant verses from it over loud speakers from 4am until 10pm everyday. On our last night there we went to the ceremony in which they walk out to the Golden Temple, put the book into a big carriage and carry it back to a room were it is held to the next day so that it can all be repeated again...It was quite a fancy ceremony for a book--they adorned the carriage with flowers and pillows and fresh sheets before retrieving it...after all of this, we went to the middle bit and as we were walking through a Sikh man grabbed my wrist and pointed to where all the Sikhs were taking holy water and drinking it and dripping it on their backs and praying...he told us that we must drink a drop as a drop could change our lives...following the cliche, when in Rome, we gladly went up, cupped our hands, drank a sip and instantly realized that this holy water and the large bath surrounding the temple were one and the same! The taste was horrid but we were hoping a bit of holy water may help us along our way--turns out, the only way this holy water changed our lives is that it gave us diarrhea that we never had before! So we have been battling a bit of upset stomach the last few days, but other than that, things have been great!

Wonderful adventures in the mountains!

Hi all,
    Just stopped in quickly to say hi. We are in McLeod Ganj, up in the far Northwest of India. It is lovely up here. So cool (temperature wise) and surrounded by mountains. The food is spectacular (this is really all I think about!) and the people are for the most part great. It is a much quieter town with a very high population of Tibetan people. They are beautiful. We are just on our way home from the Tibetan temple and museum. We had to stop in for tea at a cafe because the monsoon was too strong to get home! It is beautiful sunny again and we are headed back to have a quick shower before we go for sushi with a bunch of friends that we met here (more Irish lads and lassies!). We will write more tomorrow or the next day.

     Until then...
Love Brie and Taylor
xoxo

Amritsar and the Golden Temple

So to get out of Delhi as quickly as possible we hopped on a night train from Delhi to Amritsar. We stayed in the sleeper class trains which are very basic fold down bunk beds. We met some really nice people on the train. In our booth there were 4 Korean travelers, and in the next stall there were 2 Irish girls and a couple of Americans. Also, across from our stall were 3 Indians who were very helpful in providing information about the train, the cost of things and about Amritsar. We got into Amritsar at about 5AM and headed to the Golden temple with the two Irish girls. The Golden Temple is a Sikh Temple and as part of their faith their temples provide free accommodation and free food for people of all religions who come to visit. After some running around, we finally found the shared dorm for foreigners which is basically just a room with as many beds as possible crammed together--but it is wonderful! We have eaten for free at the temple several times every day and it has been delicious! Brie says some of the best food she has ever had! And the experience is so amazing--sitting in a giant dining hall on the ground, cross-legged, with thousands of Sikh pilgrims with your plate in front of you, while men walk around with big buckets and dish out the dahl, coconut rice and various other curries! We spent the day with the Irish girls, hanging out at the temple...and then that evening we met some more lovely people at the dorms and a group of seven us went down to the Pakistan border for the daily ceremony to close the border. About a kilometer away from the the border there is the first set of gates that are closed until about an hour before the show--and it is definitely a show--Indians and Pakistanis come from all over and join the huge crowds to sit in the big bleachers on either side of the border. When the gate finally is opened the thousands of Indians rush forward in a mad dash to get the best seats--it is absolute chaos with guards on horseback trying to maintain some sort of order...we were stuck in the crowd but we didn't have to rush for seats because the simple fact that we are foreigners means that we are VIPS and get special seating front and center--which was bizarre--though we were still frisked several times before the front gate..the start of the show includes both sides blaring music over loud speakers with women dancing in the streets and a commentator urging on the crowd to cheer louder than the other side. The main show was quite the spectacle--guards on both sides wore hats with big plumes out the top and they would call out to each other--stretching out the call as long as their voice would hold, before marching toward the gate, stomping at each other and then kicking so high that some of them hit their own heads! This was repeated several times before the generals of both countries quickly shake hands, the flags are lowered and the gates are slammed shut! It is quite a bizarre event of national pride and military bravado and shows some of the contempt and competitiveness that the two nations have for each other...
Today, after eating at the temple again (During busy times it serves up to 80,000 meals a day), we went to the site of an infamous British massacre of Indians who were protesting British rule in 1919. The Indians were protesting in a courtyard so they had no escape when the British troops showed up and opened fire...more than 1,000 people died that day...After that we went to a Hindu Temple with some other Americans we met at the dorms...it is a temple dedicated to a women and is thought to help women become fertile! We walked through low passages and an artificial cave with water running through to get to the massive stone and mirror mosaics and shrines to the gods.
And that brings us to now...we are planning on eating more of the delicious temple food, exploring more of the golden temple which is illuminated at night, spending the night here and then heading out to Mcleod Ganj tomorrow morning--we have really enjoyed Amritsar but we are excited to get into the mountains and away from some of this heat! And looking forward to the Tibetan food and culture up North. We have also really enjoyed staying in this dorm, and meeting other travelers, and sharing stories...most of the people we met left for Mcleod Ganj today so we hope to meet up with them tomorrow!

After that, are plans are still unclear...but we are leaning towards taking the 2-3 days of travel to get up to Leh to further explore the mountains and possibly trek there...but we will see what happens!

p.s. Glad the house is looking so good Mom, I can't wait to see it. I hope you all have a good time in Birch Bay. I will be hoping for good weather.

Love to you all!
Taylor and Brie

And the weather: It's damn hot!

"What's the weather like out there? "It's hot. Damn hot! Real hat! Hottest things is my shorts. I could cook things in it. A little crotch pot cooking." Well, can you tell me what it feels like? "Fool, it's hot! I told you again! Were you born on the sun? It's damn hot! I saw... It's so damn hot, I saw little guys, their orange robes burst into flames. It's that hot! Do you know what I'm talking about?" What do you think it's going to be like tonight? "It's gonna be hot and wet! That's nice if you're with a lady, but it ain't no good if you're in the jungle."

Good Morning Vietnam

Delhi. dot, dot, dot

So, after two sleepless 9 hour flights we arrived in Delhi yesterday at 11pm local time. We paid for a pre-paid cab to take us to one of the main streets for backpacker hotels and guest houses but along the way our taxi stopped at a "government" tourist info spot. We reluctantly got out of the cab and went inside where the two men working there assured us that they would phone up hotels and find us a place to stay. They were very friendly at first but we quickly realized that something was not right when they told us that all of the budget hotels in Delhi were booked and that we would have to spend 2-300 euros on a hotel or book a tour with them and leave Delhi that night. We were not sure what to do...they claimed to be a government office so we initially trusted that maybe the hotels were full--they even called up 10 hotels from our lonely planet for us and they were all full...after reading more in our book and noticing some strange happenings we realized that these were most likely the infamous Delhi hotel touts--they bring you in whether you have a reservation or not and then phone hotels(they actually dial up their friends) and convince tourists that there are no hotels available before booking you into an expensive hotel and taking their cut...by this time it was 2:30AM and we were not sure what our options were...wee were thinking of maybe staying in this cool air conditioned office till morning when the trains were running...then another taxi with two french tourists stopped and when we tried to tell them of the potential scam, the men working there quickly turned verbally aggressive and told us we were no longer welcome in the office and that we had to leave to make room for more customers...we left and decided to just continue on to the main street with the budget hotels and the first place we stopped at had rooms which we gladly paid for and finally went to bed sometime after 3am...

Delhi is a crazy city and this kind of scam is not uncommon...even if we had booked ahead, like the french tourists that we met there, we would have fallen to the same fate--the workers simply phone your hotel and tell you it has been double booked...and with most international flights arriving late at night it is easy to fall victim--racing through the streets that are lined with homeless people sleeping on the sidewalks, horns honking, street dogs barking and running out on to the streets...it can be an overwhelming city to come to, especially at night...

Anyways, we are putting this experience behind us, we are going to get our first glimpse of Delhi in the daylight and then hopefully head out to Amritsar today or tomorrow.

That's it for now...

Taylor and Brie

Testing 1, 2, 3; can anybody hear me?

Testing out the blog site the day before we leave!